Mulderbosch Steen Op Hout Chenin Blanc 2011

Back in day the cape was covered (smothered in fact) in Chenin, that the locals called Steen. Almost all of it was used to produce light, fruity off-dry grog for the local market or for sticky, sweet, sickly wines with a vaguely port-like character. Those days are long gone now and most of the offending grapes have been replaced by Sauvignon, Chardonnay or red varieties, or have been grubbed up completely.

However, there are a few exceptions. Sites well suited to good selections of Chenin that have been protected by thoughtful and skillful winemakers. Ken Forrester is one, Mulderbosch is another. Here, the Chenin is treated with the reverence it receives in the Loire Valley and is allowed to express itself as a grape, proving its noble credentials and versatility.

The Steen op Hout is one of the most impressive Chenin’s we’ve ever tasted and the price makes it astonishing value for money. Mulderbosch describe their wine as “individual & new-wave” and it’s certainly one to stand out from the bunch. Firstly it’s produced from very low-crop Chenin Blanc grapes all within the Cape region. These grapes were harvested in the early morning to ensure coolness, crushed and then lightly pressed; after which the must was cold settled before being inoculated with a select yeast culture. Eighty seven percent of the wine was tank fermented while the remaining thirteen percent underwent natural fermentation in barrel. The wine was then matured for four months in a combination of new American and Hungarian oak and first fill French oak barrels. Then, finally, and this is where much of the magic might occur, the wine was then slightly enriched with Chenin Blanc Noble Late harvest wine.

The finished wine is a riot of flavour within a beautifully textured style. On the nose there are tropical flavours contained by abundant lime and lemon aromas. These characteristics come through on the palate but you can add to these nuances of nutmeg and cloves. Well-balanced and elegant, the wine nonetheless has weight and a powerful follow-through. Stylistically you would describe this as off-dry (though only just) and lightly oaked. It’s a simply excellent food wine and is versatile enough to partner with shellfish; grilled tuna; grilled sardines; lemon and herb roast chicken; vegetable stews and a myriad of related dishes.

100% Chenin Blanc, Winemaker Richard Kershaw, Abv 13.5%, Drink 2011-2015.